5 Must-Things-To-Do: Bangalore

The essential quick guide for discerning travellers by inflight-magazine of Singapore Airlines
WRITTEN BY CHARUKESI RAMADURAI

1. SEE GREEN

Bangalore – also known as Bengaluru – has been described as having an Elvis-like flamboyance, perhaps due to its image as a fast-paced technology city. But in reality, the heart of the city is quiet and green. Known as the garden city, it is one of India’s greenest areas, with numerous parks and gardens. Lalbagh Botanical Garden (right) and Cubbon Park, the two largest parks, are practically Bangalore institutions. Bird watching, nature walks, people watching – take your pick of what you would like to do on a cool morning or late evening. Or just take a book with you and relax on one of the benches.

2. USE YOUR LEGS

Bangalore is full of hidden nooks of history, and organised walks are an excellent way to uncover them. Try Bangalore Walks or INTACH, the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage, for walking tours that spotlight the culture and heritage of the charming city. For a different mode of sightseeing, Art of Bicycle Trips offers cycling tours beyond city limits. Try the Nrityagram Dance Village Safari, a leisurely pedal along the countryside that brings you to Nrityagram (above), a school for Indian classical dances.

3. BEER CHEER

While New Delhi and Mumbai have their share of watering holes, the arrival of new beer spots on Bangalore’s landscape has firmly established it as the beer capital of the country. The Biere Club (above) on Vittal Mallya Road, the first microbrewery in the city, has garnered many loyal admirers in the few months it has been open. Toit Brewpub is where the young and restless of Bangalore gather to drink and be seen. There are also old favourites like Windsor Pub (7 Kodava Samaja Building, 1st Main Road, Tel: 91 80 2225 8847). But be warned: This city shuts down early, so you are likely to be out on the streets by midnight.

4. STYLISH INNS

Minimalism as a design concept is fairly unknown in India but several new hotels, showcasing clean lines and large white spaces, have brought a new aesthetic sensibility to the city. At Svenska Bangalore – in the heart of the information technology belt in the south Bangalore area – you can enjoy an authentic Indian meal at Soul, their signature Indian restaurant, or have Japanese cuisine at their rooftop restaurant Sensen. Aloft Bengaluru Whitefield boasts bright and airy rooms, close to the business hub of International Technology Park Limited. The hotel also has a funky lounge, Re:mix(SM), and a fine Mediterranean restaurant, Estia, perfect for entertaining friends and business contacts.

5. GOOD EATS

Masala dosa served with coconut chutney is one of Bangalore’s original eats. Residents like to argue over the best place to have them, but one option is Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) which has been serving them since 1924. Other eateries to try are Vidyarthi Bhavan (32 Gandhi Bazaar, Tel: 91 80 2667 7588), where political bigwigs are often spotted, and New Krishna Bhavan (33/39 Sampige Road, Tel: 91 80 2344 3940), also known for their ragi (millet) and akki (rice) dosa. For the health conscious, there is the option of idli (steamed rice cakes) found everywhere.

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Cycling in Bangalore City

A survival kit for city cycler

After 5 months of intense city cycling on Bangalore’s urban roads, I’m more convinced than ever that even for a foreigner like me, there is absolutely no problem in commuting B’lore by bike. Agreed, you have to know some small tricks to fully take advantage of the trip. Ok, here you go:

Time management

If you go to work by bike, take your time for the first few days and figure out the best streets to take. Big roads can be rather tiring (loud!) and are perhaps even not the quickest option.

A smart phone with GPS can help but not always. If you are cycling on big roads, no problem, you can trust the GPS. Small roads however, bring you often quicker and in a more relaxed way to your destination but regrettably you cannot rely on GPS for the small roads – at least not with my system. Anyway, try not to use GPS, you’ll understand the city much quicker and the estimation of time you need to go from A to B becomes natural.

MUST!

You need good front- and backlights. Even if you feel incredibly cool when overtaking cars, auto-rickshaws and even busses by bike, you are still the weakest element in this organism named traffic.

Breaks have to be fixed regularly. In the daily competition of who-goes-first, your breaks serve you as kind of an insurance and decide if you dare or not taking “your space.”

For the monsoon season you need to have at least a good plastic bag in your backpack to protect your phone and other things that are sensitive to water. Once you are really really wet, take it easy: the shower at home will be even better.

Danger?

Mainly potholes and busses! The first are much less of an issue if you know the way (hopefully you didn’t get to know them the painful way), the latter stay the Rambos of the Indian traffic. Anyway, you develop some kind of a prophecy-sense when it comes to overtake busses – or is it perhaps courage or simply madness…? Busses have the power on the road and they know it, so the only way to pass them, is to do that just before a stop or a street hump. Those street humps are really nice for bicyclers because every other vehicle has to slow down when they approach them, not cyclers.

Space management: Well, that can sometimes be a bit scary when you have for example 2 auto-rickshaws, 2 cars and your good self next to each other on a normal road and suddenly this scooty driver thinks there is still enough space for him and somehow squeezes himself through. No need to scream of anger, nobody will react despite of some large vicious smiles from your Indian street friends, saying: See, white fellow, not everybody is strong enough for the Indian roads. You don’t want to give anybody this satisfaction.

Tricks

Important is not to do any abrupt movements to the left or to the right. Your move should be predictable by the drivers behind you. And when you are showing what you want, you get it.

But don’t be polite or anxious and look back before you change the side of the road. Make a sign with your hand and then move slowly but steadily from one side to the other. If you look back, people assume that you have seen them and that means you know what they want, hence they want to get first what they want before they let you change the side of the road. In short: looking back confuses everybody. Of course you should use your ears to estimate how near the nearest driver next to you is before changing directions. If I think of that, I’ve to add one small observation: Loud and deep honk-sounds correspond not necessarily to big vehicles. One may think that there is something like a market for bus or truck honks. Often you hear a typical honk of a bus but what comes along is just a little scooty. And sometimes it is also the other way around: surprise…!

Looking people into their eyes is equally confusing as looking back. Your regard gives people permission to go – your choice.

Fun!

Feedback: Constant smiles, thumbs up and comments of Indians street fellows give you a damn good feeling that you are actually doing something right.

When you go out for a small evening drink or you find one of the rare places to dance in B’lore, take the bike! The way home will be great. After 11pm Bangalore’s streets are totally empty. You’ll actually see that it is still a very green city and you even smell the flowers of the trees, something what is of course impossible during the day.

For a short weekend outing, organise a van, a pickup or one of these mini-auto-rickshaw-pickups to get out of the city. Spend the day among rice paddles, tiny towns and relax: Excellent on a Sunday or Saturday.

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Bangalore City Tour – an active way

“Art of Bicycle Trips,” I read in the Sunday supplement. “Sounds interesting,” I thought and called a friend of mine who I was sure would jump at the chance for a bit of adventure. We promptly booked spots on the tour for next Sunday. Sure, we knew a bit of what to expect. It was a tour through Victorian Bangalore, the catch being that it would be on bicycles, hence the ‘adventure’ aspect.

Yes it was that, and much much more.

We reached the Art of Bicycle office at 6:30 AM and tested our bicycles. We were a bit unsure but were confident we would gain our bearings in no time. We cycled from the Art of Bicycle Trip offices near the Leela Palace through the Bangalore Cantt area to MG Road and on to Holy Trinity Church. We walked around the grounds of the church and took some photos after a short history lesson. We then started cycling down MG Road and saw the first power generator in India (which I hadn’t noticed before, despite having walked/driven by it numerous times). We stopped in front of Mayo Hall and noticed the sculpture in front of it. Another history lesson followed. Our next stop was St. Mark’s Cathedral and we were taken in by the sheer splendor of the place. We explored the grounds at a leisurely pace.

We had worked up an appetite with all the cycling and so we stopped for a much needed tea break. Here we finally got a chance to mingle and interact. We were from different walks of life and a common spirit for adventure and exploration had brought us together, a bunch of travelers on a quest to know more, to discover more in the mundane around us.

Once back on our bikes, we rode to Cubbon Park and looked at Queen Victoria’s statue. In the same area are the High Court, the Vidhan Soudha, the Sheshadri Iyer Memorial Hall, the Bandstand and the Government Museum. Although we had seen most of these buildings before, we saw things that we had hitherto overlooked, such as the old tree in Cubbon Park, which had a maze of branches rising up and out providing shade to everyone in the vicinity.

Before we ended the trip by cycling all the way back to the Art of Bicycle office, we had breakfast at Koshy’s, where the menu card announces that it was the “Katerers to the late Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru and The Queen of England”!!!

Such was the flavor of this trip, the discovery of something new in the old. An attempt to connect with the history of this city we inhabit to make sense of what it is now. To get a better feel for the pulse of the city and thereby gain more insight into its character. All of us had walked the roads of this city for years, yet none of us had felt as connected to it as we did when we cycled through the same roads with the Art of Bicycle Trip.

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A beautiful experience

Bicycle Touring – A beautiful experience

At first it sounded insane. On second thought it sounded more insane. Bicycle trip of 100KM. Why would anyone do a trip on bicycle? Why would someone spend 8-10hrs when same can be traversed in couple of hours. I tried to look for logical reasons but couldn’t find any. But as I thought more about it my mind wandered beyond the art of reasoning and landed in the art of bicycling. For some, bicycle is a utility and for others, a revelation of human potential and endurance. Or simply put – prioritization of pleasure and endurance over utility leading to beautiful touring experience.

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a journey on bicycle

Three riders set off from Bangalore to Bhimeshwari – a journey on bicycle

We took trek bikes on rent and set off on a beautiful journey of one long day to Cauvery fishing camp. The starting point was Bangalore. Morning was pleasant and excitement of trip added on to the morning luster. Natives looked at us with little bewilderment but appeared to be fascinated by our machines. It seemed to us that they all wanted to see the world from our vantage point and ride along with us. We carried on our beautiful machines and took our first break at Nice road which is around 25Km from our starting point. The beautiful rustic village was in sight and as we reached there the village boys gathered round the bikes. The machines appeared to them as whirligigs, a spinning toy. As we moved on they all started running behind us until they were all outran by us. As we passed villages on villages, some people called us ‘odd cattle’ to ‘bold rattle’ and few others called ‘mad envoy’, ‘wacky wheelers’. Some villagers looked at us with pleasant shock but it seemed as if all were able to comprehend what we were up to. It was just about getting on the road.

Over the hills and beyond,
Into the rising sun and lore,
Lean it, curve it,
Through the storm and woods and all,

It’s just about getting on the road,
As there is no reason and all,
Let’s just spin on and on,
And steer the beast’s rise and fall,

No matter what the world call us,
From odd cattle to bold rattle and all,
Here we go down the road and up the hill,
Pedaling into the wild and beyond,

Untamed.

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Art of Bicycle Trips

Art of Bicycle Trips offers a simple and unique way to experience the real India. We design unique bicycle safaris exploring the culture, historic sites, architecture, ethnic diversity, scenic beauty, remote villages and realities of daily life of India, making the art of bicycle trips and active travel rewarding and memorable. Each bicycle safari is unique, has a mix of adventure activities, and highlight the diversity and most interesting facets of the area. With Art of Bicycle Trips you’ll bike through beautiful landscapes at your own pace, engage with communities along the trip and indulge in unique regional cuisine. While we handle every detail and provide you all the conveniences, there is a beautiful cycling holiday to enjoy.

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Victorian Bangalore Safari

This relaxed bicycle safari takes you back in the Victorian era, tracing the history of Bangalore Cantonment through the South Parade (now MG Road) and Cubbon Park. It is Art of Bicycle Trip’s classic design to give you an exhilarating glimpse into the true garden city and its colonial past from the vantage point of cycle. We will ride along the boulevard of trees and see 19th Century churches, stately homes, ‘Neo-Classical’ style monuments and indigenous and exotic botanical species found in the park.

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Nrityagram Dance Village Safari

The classical dances of India are an eloquent expression of their ancient civilization, and a remarkable continuity of cultural heritage. At Nrityagram, dance is a way of life, a matter of faith and belief, nurtured and enriched by the souls of its own people. It is a community of dancers in a remote place amidst nature. This leisurely bicycle safari combines the delightful classical dance experience with the charms of an idyllic village through vegetable gardens, lake, dairy farms, open grass land and country roads.

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Passage to India

This is simply the best cycling trail that you would see around Bangalore. ‘A passage to India’ and ‘Sholay’ movies were shot here. It is a pure countryside cycling. On this one-day safari, discover old visions of India: a land of elephants, laughing children, rice paddies, granite cliffs and temple after temple; visit Janapada Loka, Karnataka’s premier folk-culture centre or marvel at Channapatna’s, a toy-town, exquisite craftsmanship. This is a real rural India experience that you won’t find on other itineraries.

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Nandi Challenge

Perched at a height of 4,851 ft (1,479 m) above sea level, Nandi Hills offers a surprise of breathtaking views and scenic beauty. The sides of the hill are clothed with scrub forest mixed with eucalyptus and Lantana. This adrenaline pumping bicycle safari will make you write a poetry on your experience.

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